Kauai
The oldest and greenest of the main Hawaiian islands, where sea cliffs, a red-walled canyon and taro-filled valleys outshine the resorts.
- Best time to go
- April to June and September to October for drier weather and fewer crowds; May to September for the calmest seas on the north shore and Nā Pali
- Local time
- –
- Currency
- US Dollar (USD)
- Reading time
- 14 min
- Language
- English
Kauai is the oldest of the main Hawaiian islands, and it shows. Some five million years of rain and surf have carved its volcanic dome into knife-edged ridges, a canyon more than 3,000 feet (900 m) deep and the fluted green sea cliffs of the Nā Pali Coast, which no road has ever crossed. The summit area is one of the wettest places on Earth, and the run-off feeds waterfalls, rivers you can paddle and valleys where taro still grows in flooded terraces. Locals call it the Garden Island, and a strict rule that no building may rise above the coconut palms keeps it feeling more rural than Oahu or Maui.
The island is roughly round, about 33 miles (53 km) across, with one main highway that wraps around three-quarters of it and stops at each end of the Nā Pali cliffs. Most visitors split their stay between the sunny south shore around Poʻipū and the lush north shore around Hanalei, with the east side around Līhuʻe and Kapaʻa in between. Give it at least five days, and a week if you want time for a boat trip, a long hike and a lazy beach day or two.
A note on 2026 storms. Hurricane Lowell and then Tropical Storm Nolo hit Hawaii in September 2026, damaging roads, trees and parks across Kauai. At the time of writing in late October, the state had reopened Hāʻena State Park for day use and the main Waimea Canyon Lookout, but Kōkeʻe Road beyond the canyon, Polihale and most other Kauai state parks, plus all state camping on the island, were still closed. Check the Division of State Parks notices page before you plan any day around a state park.
The top 15 in Kauai
- 1
Wailua Falls
A short drive north of Līhuʻe airport, the twin streams of Wailua Falls pour around 80 feet (25 m) over a lava ledge into a round pool fringed with ferns and hala trees. You see it from a roadside viewpoint at the end of Maʻalo Road, so it takes ten minutes, and on a sunny morning a rainbow often hangs in the spray. It makes a natural first stop on the way from the airport or a gentle finale on the day you fly out.
TipIgnore the worn paths down the slope; they are steep, slippery and have caused serious falls. The view from the top is the one to have.
- 2
Wailua River and the Fern Grotto
The Wailua is often called the only navigable river in Hawaii, and its valley was a royal and sacred centre for Hawaiians, lined with heiau (temple platforms) and birthing stones that still survive. The classic way to see it is the riverboat that has run from Wailua Marina since 1946, chugging about two miles upstream to the Fern Grotto, a lava-rock amphitheatre draped with hanging ferns where musicians perform a Hawaiian wedding song. Kayaking up the river is the more active alternative.
TipThe river reopened in September 2026 after storm closures, but individual kayakers were not allowed to land at the Fern Grotto and the hike to Uluwehi (Secret) Falls remained closed. Book a guided trip or the riverboat and confirm what is running.
- 3
ʻŌpaekaʻa Falls
Just up the hill from the river, a roadside lookout faces a broad, white ribbon of water dropping roughly 150 feet (45 m) down a green cliff. The name means "rolling shrimp", after the freshwater shrimp once seen tumbling in the stream. Cross the road for a view down onto the Wailua River and a reconstructed Hawaiian village site on its banks.
- 4
Kīlauea Point National Wildlife Refuge
On the island's northernmost tip, the white Daniel K. Inouye Kīlauea Point Lighthouse, lit in 1913, stands on a headland above cliffs that swarm with seabirds. Red-footed boobies nest in the scrub on the slopes opposite, great frigatebirds hang in the wind, and Laysan albatrosses court and nest here between late autumn and summer. Nēnē, the endangered Hawaiian goose, wander the lawns, and from December to April humpback whales spout offshore.
TipThe refuge opens Wednesday to Saturday from 10am to 4pm (last arrival 3.30pm). Every adult aged 16 and over needs a reservation on Recreation.gov, costing $11; walking in up the steep driveway is not allowed. Bring binoculars.
- 5
Hanalei Valley Lookout
Opposite the shopping centre at the entrance to Princeville, this pull-off looks down into Hanalei Valley, a patchwork of flooded loʻi kalo (taro fields) shining between the river and steep, waterfall-streaked mountains. Much of the valley is a national wildlife refuge protecting endangered Hawaiian waterbirds, and the taro grown here supplies a large share of Hawaii's poi. It is a two-minute stop and one of the defining views of the island.
- 6
Hanalei Bay and town
The road drops past the valley and over a one-lane iron bridge into Hanalei, a small town of surf shops, food trucks, shave-ice stands and wooden churches. The two-mile crescent of Hanalei Bay curves beneath a wall of green mountains, with its old wooden pier at the eastern end. In summer the bay is calm enough for swimming, paddleboarding and gentle surf lessons; in winter big swells roll in and only experienced surfers should go out. The 1830s Waiʻoli Mission House gives a glimpse of missionary-era Kauai.
TipBeyond Hanalei the highway crosses several more one-lane bridges. Local etiquette is to let a group of five to seven cars cross, then give way to the other side.
- 7
Hāʻena State Park and Kēʻē Beach
The road ends at Hāʻena, where a reef-sheltered lagoon at Kēʻē Beach offers some of the island's best summer snorkelling, framed by the first of the Nā Pali cliffs. The park also protects restored taro terraces and an ancient hula platform, still a sacred site, so treat it with respect. After years of overcrowding the state introduced a strict daily cap: non-residents must book in advance through the Go Hāʻena system, which opens 30 days ahead. The options are a shuttle from Hanalei or Princeville ($45 per adult in 2026, including entry), a parking slot ($20 per car per time slot plus $5 per person entry), or entry only for those dropped off.
TipParking slots usually sell out within minutes of release at midnight Hawaii time, so the shuttle is the realistic choice for most visitors. Do not park on the road outside the park; fines are steep and cars are towed.
- 8
Nā Pali Coast and the Kalalau Trail
The Nā Pali Coast is Kauai's masterpiece: 17 miles of cliffs rising up to 4,000 feet (1,200 m) straight from the sea, split by hanging valleys and sea caves. You can see it in three ways. The Kalalau Trail starts in Hāʻena State Park and runs 11 miles to Kalalau Beach; with a Hāʻena reservation you can hike the first two muddy, rocky miles to Hanakāpīʻai Beach (never swim there, as rip currents have drowned many people) and continue inland to the 300-foot Hanakāpīʻai Falls, about eight miles round trip. Going beyond Hanakāpīʻai normally requires a state camping permit, but after the 2026 storms the trail past the two-mile point and all overnight camping were closed until further notice.
The easier options are by sea and air. Catamaran and rigid-inflatable tours leave from Port Allen and Kīkīaola harbours on the west side, sailing along the cliffs and, in calm summer seas, into the sea caves; winter swells often limit them to the southern stretch. Helicopter flights from Līhuʻe sweep over Waimea Canyon, the Nā Pali valleys and the cloud-wrapped crater of Waiʻaleʻale, the island's wettest summit, in about an hour.
TipBook boat trips for early in your stay so a cancelled sailing can be rebooked. Morning departures usually have the calmest water.
- 9
Old Kōloa Town
On the way to the south shore, the road passes under a tunnel of eucalyptus trees into Kōloa, where Hawaii's first commercial sugar plantation opened in 1835. The main street's restored plantation-era wooden buildings now hold shops, cafés and a small history centre, with a monument to the many immigrant groups, from China, Japan, Portugal and the Philippines, who worked the cane fields. It is a pleasant place for breakfast or shave ice.
- 10
Poʻipū Beach
Poʻipū is the sunniest corner of the island and its main resort area. At Poʻipū Beach Park a sandbar joins a small islet to the shore, creating two sheltered bays, one with a children's paddling pool behind a rock wall and the other good for snorkelling among reef fish. Hawaiian monk seals, one of the world's rarest seals, regularly haul out to sleep on the sand, and green sea turtles graze in the shallows. Lifeguards are on duty, there are showers and picnic tables, and sunsets are excellent.
TipVolunteers often rope off resting seals. Stay at least 50 feet (15 m) from seals and 10 feet (3 m) from turtles, and never touch them.
- 11
Spouting Horn
West of Poʻipū, waves surge into a lava tube in the shoreline shelf and blast out through a hole in the roof as a geyser of spray, sometimes 30 feet (10 m) high, with an eerie groan from a second opening. Hawaiian legend says the moan is a giant lizard, or moʻo, trapped in the tube. The free county park has a viewing area, craft stalls and wild chickens, the island's unofficial mascot.
TipThe show is strongest at high tide with a southerly swell. Stay behind the railings; the rocks are deadly in big surf.
- 12
Allerton and McBryde gardens
Across the road from Spouting Horn, the National Tropical Botanical Garden runs two gardens in the lush Lāwaʻi Valley. Allerton Garden, once a retreat of Queen Emma and later laid out by Robert Allerton and John Gregg Allerton, is a series of outdoor rooms with fountains, statues and the giant buttress roots of Moreton Bay fig trees that film fans may recognise from Jurassic Park. McBryde Garden, further up the valley, holds the world's largest collection of native Hawaiian plants alongside breadfruit and canoe plants brought by the first Polynesian settlers.
TipAll visits are by tour, with a shuttle from the Lāwaʻi Gardens Visitor Center (open Tuesday to Saturday). Allerton requires a reservation and closed-toe shoes or strapped sandals; book ahead, as tours sell out.
- 13
Waimea Canyon
Mark Twain is often wrongly credited with calling it the Grand Canyon of the Pacific, but the nickname fits. Waimea Canyon is about ten miles long and more than 3,000 feet (900 m) deep, its walls striped red, rust and green, with waterfalls threading down the far side and white-tailed tropicbirds circling below the rim. A winding road climbs from the town of Waimea to a string of lookouts in Waimea Canyon State Park, where non-residents pay $5 per person entry and $10 per vehicle for parking.
TipAfter storm damage the main Waimea Canyon Lookout reopened on 24 October 2026, but other lookouts were still closed. Go in the morning, before clouds build in the canyon.
- 14
Kōkeʻe State Park and Kalalau Lookout
Beyond the canyon, the road climbs into the cool upland forest of Kōkeʻe and ends at about 4,000 feet (1,200 m) at the Kalalau Lookout, where the ground falls away into the vast amphitheatre of Kalalau Valley, ridged like green velvet, with the Pacific far below. Nearby Puʻu o Kila Lookout and the Pihea Trail along the rim are just as spectacular, and the Alakaʻi Swamp beyond is home to rare forest birds found nowhere else. Kōkeʻe also has a small natural history museum and a lodge.
TipKōkeʻe Road was closed beyond the junction with Waimea Canyon Drive after the September 2026 storms, with downed trees across the road. When it reopens, arrive early: cloud often fills Kalalau Valley by late morning, though it can clear as quickly as it came.
- 15
Polihale
At the far western end of the island, where the Nā Pali cliffs begin, Polihale is a seven-mile sweep of golden sand backed by high dunes, one of the longest beaches in Hawaii and a magnificent sunset spot. Getting there means driving several miles of rough, rutted dirt road through former sugar land, which most rental agreements forbid and which can be impassable after rain. The surf is powerful and there are no lifeguards, so this is a place for walking and watching, not swimming.
TipPolihale State Park was among the Kauai parks still closed after the 2026 storms. Check its status first, and only attempt the road in a high-clearance four-wheel-drive vehicle with rental terms that allow it.
When to go
Kauai is warm all year, with daytime temperatures in the high 70s to mid 80s °F (25–30 °C) at sea level, but the seasons still matter. From about November to March, trade-wind showers and winter storms are more frequent, especially on the north shore, and big northern swells close Hanalei Bay and Kēʻē to swimmers and cut short many Nā Pali boat trips. This is also humpback whale season and when Laysan albatrosses return to Kīlauea. Summer, from May to September, brings the calmest seas on the north and west coasts, the best time for snorkelling at Kēʻē, boat trips into the sea caves and hiking the Kalalau Trail when it is open; the south shore can get swells then instead.
The quieter shoulder months of April to early June and September to October offer the best balance of weather, prices and availability. Kōkeʻe and the canyon rim are noticeably cooler than the coast, so bring a fleece. The central Pacific hurricane season runs from June to November; direct hits are rare, but 2026 showed how a storm can close parks and roads for weeks, so buy flexible bookings and travel insurance.
Getting around
Līhuʻe Airport (LIH) on the east side receives direct flights from the US mainland and frequent inter-island hops from Honolulu, Kahului on Maui and Kona on the Big Island. There is no inter-island ferry. A rental car is close to essential, as attractions are spread out and many sit at the ends of side roads; book well ahead in peak season. The Kaumualiʻi Highway runs west from Līhuʻe to Waimea and Kekaha, and the Kūhiō Highway runs north through Kapaʻa to Hāʻena. Driving from Poʻipū to Hāʻena takes around two hours in traffic, and there is no way round the Nā Pali Coast, so you double back.
The Kauaʻi Bus links the main towns along the highway and is cheap, but it does not reach most sights and carries only small bags. Traffic through Kapaʻa and Līhuʻe can be slow at rush hour. On the north shore, the Go Hāʻena shuttle from Hanalei and Princeville saves the stress of finding parking. Cycling is pleasant on Ke Ala Hele Makalae, a paved coastal path along the east side near Kapaʻa.
Local tips
- Book Hāʻena State Park, Kīlauea Point, the Allerton Garden and any boat or helicopter tour before you arrive; all can sell out.
- Hawaii state parks charge non-residents separate entry and parking fees, and national park passes are not accepted at state parks.
- Never turn your back on the ocean. Winter swells, rip currents and shorebreak cause most visitor deaths in Kauai; swim only at lifeguarded beaches when unsure.
- Expect rain on the north shore even in "dry" season; it usually passes in minutes.
- Do not leave valuables visible in rental cars at trailheads and beaches.
- Wild chickens are everywhere, and roosters start crowing well before dawn. Pack earplugs.
- Mobile coverage is patchy or absent around Hāʻena, along the Nā Pali Coast and in parts of Kōkeʻe; download maps offline.
- Tip 18 to 20% in restaurants. Hawaii adds general excise tax to most prices, and room taxes were raised in 2026, partly to fund conservation.
Eat and drink
Kauai's food is a mix of Hawaiian, Asian and plantation-era cooking. Try poke, cubes of raw fish seasoned with soy, sesame and seaweed, from a fish counter or supermarket deli; a plate lunch of rice, macaroni salad and teriyaki or kalua pork; and laulau, pork steamed in taro leaves. Saimin, a local noodle soup, is a cheap comfort meal, and Hanalei's poi, made from pounded taro grown in the valley, is worth tasting at least once. Shave ice, piled with tropical syrups and often a scoop of ice cream underneath, is the island's essential afternoon treat.
Farmers' markets around the island sell lilikoʻi (passion fruit), apple bananas, papayas and rambutans, and Kauai coffee is grown on former sugar land near ʻEleʻele. Food trucks gather in Hanalei, Kapaʻa and Poʻipū. A lūʻau, such as the long-running one at Smith's Tropical Paradise in Wailua, combines a buffet with hula and fire dancing.
Where to stay
The south shore, around Poʻipū and Kōloa, has the most reliable sunshine, the widest choice of resorts and condos, and easy access to Waimea Canyon and the boat harbours. The north shore, in Princeville and Hanalei, is greener, wetter and more spectacular, and puts you close to Hāʻena and the Kalalau Trail, but it is a long drive from the west side. The east side, between Līhuʻe and Kapaʻa (the Coconut Coast), is the most central and generally the best value, with many mid-range hotels and holiday rentals. Kōkeʻe has rustic cabins in the mountains, and camping is popular on the island, though all state campgrounds were closed in late 2026.
Island history
Polynesian voyagers settled Kauai perhaps a thousand years ago, and the island developed a strong identity of its own. It was the only island Kamehameha I never conquered by force: its ruler, Kaumualiʻi, agreed in 1810 to accept Kamehameha's rule, keeping Kauai out of the wars that unified the other islands. In 1778 Captain James Cook made his first landfall in Hawaii at Waimea, on Kauai's south-west coast, an encounter that opened the islands to the outside world.
Missionaries arrived in the 1820s, and sugar soon followed, beginning at Kōloa in 1835. For more than 150 years plantations shaped the island's economy and population, bringing workers from Asia and Europe whose descendants still give Kauai its mixed culture. The last sugar harvests ended around 2010. Hurricane ʻIniki, which struck in 1992, was the most destructive storm in modern Hawaiian history, and the island has since become a byword for lush scenery, starring in films from South Pacific to Jurassic Park.
Ocean safety
Kauai has a sobering record of drownings, and nearly all involve visitors. The waters around the island are open ocean, with no continental shelf to calm them, so swells arrive with great force, especially on the north shore in winter and the south shore in summer. Before swimming, look for lifeguard towers, read the warning signs, and watch the water for a while; if locals are not swimming, neither should you. Never swim at Hanakāpīʻai, Polihale or Queen's Bath near Princeville, and keep well back from wet rocks and blowholes, where rogue waves sweep people away. Flash floods can also turn streams on hiking trails into torrents within minutes, so do not cross a rising stream.
Responsible travel
Kauai depends on visitors but also struggles with them: traffic, overcrowded beaches and rising housing costs weigh on residents, which is why places like Hāʻena now have strict limits. Respect closures and reservation systems, especially while the island recovers from the 2026 storms. Stay on marked trails, clean your shoes to avoid spreading invasive plant seeds and fungi such as Rapid ʻŌhiʻa Death, and do not stack rocks, take sand or lava, or enter heiau and other sacred sites. Use reef-safe sunscreen, which Hawaii law requires to be free of certain chemicals, and do not stand on or touch coral. Give monk seals, turtles and nesting seabirds plenty of space, and spend your money with local farmers, food trucks and family-run businesses.