Edinburgh
A medieval Old Town on a volcanic ridge, an elegant Georgian New Town, and a wild hill in the middle of the city.
- Best time to go
- May to September for long days; August for the festivals; late December for Hogmanay
- Local time
- –
- Currency
- British Pound (GBP)
- Reading time
- 4 min
- Language
- English
Edinburgh is one of the most dramatic cities in Europe. Its castle sits on the plug of an extinct volcano, the medieval Old Town runs down the ridge behind it, and across a valley lies the New Town, a planned grid of Georgian streets and squares built in the eighteenth century. Together they form a World Heritage Site, and from almost every corner there's a view of a hill, a spire or the sea.
The Scottish capital is compact, full of history and literature, and fun, with lively pubs and a calendar of festivals. In August, the city hosts the largest arts festival in the world. Bring layers for the changeable weather and comfortable shoes for its hills and steps.
The top 9 in Edinburgh
- 1
Edinburgh Castle
Photo: Daniel Kraft, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The fortress on Castle Rock has guarded the city for nearly a thousand years. Within its walls are St Margaret's Chapel, the oldest building in Edinburgh, the Honours of Scotland, the oldest crown jewels in the British Isles, and the Stone of Destiny, used in coronations. The One O'Clock Gun is fired every day except Sundays.
TipBook a timed ticket online and go at opening time; the views over the city from the ramparts are superb.
- 2
The Royal Mile
Photo: Nevit Dilmen (talk), CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The main street of the Old Town runs downhill from the castle to the Palace of Holyroodhouse, lined with tall stone tenements and narrow alleys called closes and wynds. Along the way are St Giles' Cathedral, with its crown-shaped spire, and small museums about the city's history.
TipDuck into the closes: many lead to hidden courtyards, gardens and views.
- 3
The Palace of Holyroodhouse
Photo: Daniel Kraft, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The King's official residence in Scotland, at the foot of the Royal Mile, with state apartments, the rooms of Mary, Queen of Scots, and the ruins of a twelfth-century abbey. The Scottish Parliament's modern building faces it across the road.
- 4
Arthur's Seat
Photo: Ermell, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
An extinct volcano in Holyrood Park, rising to 251 metres above the city. The climb to its summit takes about forty-five minutes from the palace and rewards you with views over the whole city, the Firth of Forth and the hills beyond.
TipTake a sturdy pair of shoes and a jacket; the summit is exposed and can be windy and slippery.
- 5
Calton Hill
Photo: Daniel Kraft, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
A short climb from the east end of Princes Street leads to this hill of monuments, including an unfinished copy of the Parthenon. It has one of the classic views of Edinburgh, looking along Princes Street to the castle, and is especially popular at sunset.
- 6
The National Museum of Scotland
Photo: Unknown, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
A free museum telling the story of Scotland, from geology and wildlife to the Lewis Chessmen and Dolly the sheep, with a roof terrace offering views of the castle. Its Victorian Grand Gallery is one of the most beautiful spaces in the city.
- 7
The New Town and Princes Street Gardens
Photo: Ermell, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The elegant Georgian New Town is a grid of wide streets, crescents and private gardens. Princes Street Gardens, in the valley below the castle, are a green space in the heart of the city, overlooked by the Gothic spire of the Scott Monument, and the Scottish National Gallery stands on the Mound between them.
- 8
Dean Village
Photo: Mainlymazza, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
A former milling village beside the Water of Leith, a few minutes' walk from the West End, with old stone buildings by the river. A riverside path leads from here to the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art and on to Stockbridge.
- 9
Leith
Photo: Kenneth C. Zirkel, CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Edinburgh's old port has become a lively district of seafood restaurants, bars and waterside walks. The Royal Yacht Britannia, which served the royal family for more than forty years, is moored here and can be visited.
When to go
Summer brings long evenings, with daylight until after ten in June. August is festival month: the Edinburgh International Festival, the Festival Fringe and the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo fill the city with performances, and accommodation fills up and prices rise. Spring and autumn are quieter. Winter days are short, but Christmas markets and the Hogmanay New Year celebrations, with fireworks over the castle, are spectacular.
Getting around
Edinburgh is a walking city, though its hills and steps make for a good workout. Lothian buses cover the city and its suburbs, and the tram runs from the airport through the city centre to Leith. Contactless payments work on buses and trams.
Trains from Edinburgh Waverley reach Glasgow in under an hour and London in about four and a half hours.
Local tips
- Pack layers and a waterproof jacket at any time of year: the weather changes quickly.
- Book accommodation many months ahead if you're visiting in August or at New Year.
- Edinburgh charges a visitor levy on overnight stays, added to your accommodation bill.
- Many of the best museums and galleries are free.
- Look for free comedy and music shows during the Fringe, alongside ticketed ones.
- Mind the closes: they are steep and can be slippery in the rain.
Eat and drink
Try haggis, neeps and tatties (turnip and potatoes), Cullen skink (a smoked haddock soup), fresh Scottish seafood and salmon, and a full Scottish breakfast. Edinburgh's pubs range from historic taverns to modern cocktail bars, and the city is a good place to discover Scotch whisky, with specialist bars and tastings.
Day trips
Edinburgh is a good base for exploring Scotland. Glasgow, a lively city of Victorian architecture, music and free museums, is less than an hour away by train. Stirling Castle, where Scottish kings and queens were crowned, stands above the battlefields of the wars of independence. Rosslyn Chapel, south of the city, is famous for its intricate fifteenth-century stone carvings. At South Queensferry, three great bridges cross the Firth of Forth, including the red-painted Forth Bridge, a World Heritage Site. Many tours run from Edinburgh into the Highlands, though Loch Ness and the far north make for a long day; staying a night or two is more rewarding.