Bangkok
Gilded temples, river boats, street food on every corner and sky-high rooftop bars. A city that never stops moving.
- Best time to go
- November to February, during the cooler, drier season
- Local time
- –
- Currency
- Thai Baht (THB)
- Reading time
- 5 min
- Language
- Thai
Bangkok is a city of contrasts: glittering temples and glass towers, quiet canals and roaring expressways, humble street stalls and some of Asia's finest restaurants. It has been Thailand's capital since 1782, when a new royal city was founded on the banks of the Chao Phraya River, and that riverside old town is still where most of its great monuments stand.
The city is huge, hot and often congested, but it is also friendly, easy to navigate and endlessly fascinating. The secret is to use the river and the trains rather than the roads, to start early before the heat builds, and to eat as the locals do, at the stalls and markets.
The top 10 in Bangkok
- 1
The Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew
Photo: Nawit science, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The former residence of the kings of Siam is a dazzling complex of halls, spires and courtyards. Inside its walls, Wat Phra Kaew, the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, houses Thailand's most sacred image, a small jade Buddha dressed in seasonal robes by the king.
TipA strict dress code applies: cover shoulders and knees, and avoid tight clothing. Ignore anyone outside who tells you the palace is closed today; it's a common scam.
- 2
Wat Pho
Photo: กสิณธร ราชโอรส, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Just south of the palace, Wat Pho is one of the oldest temples in Bangkok and home to the Reclining Buddha, forty-six metres long and covered in gold leaf, with mother-of-pearl decoration on the soles of its feet. The temple is also the birthplace of traditional Thai massage, which you can still receive at its school.
- 3
Wat Arun
Photo: Clay Gilliland, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The Temple of Dawn rises on the west bank of the river, its central spire covered in fragments of coloured porcelain. You can climb part of the way up its steep steps for views across the water.
TipTake the short ferry across from Tha Tien pier near Wat Pho; for the classic view, watch the sunset from the opposite bank.
- 4
The Chao Phraya River
Photo: Grendelkhan, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The river was Bangkok's main highway long before roads, and it is still the most enjoyable way to travel. The Chao Phraya Express boats link the old town, Chinatown and the riverside hotels, and longtail boats explore the narrow canals of Thonburi on the west bank, with their wooden houses on stilts.
- 5
Chinatown (Yaowarat)
Photo: Ninara from Helsinki, Finland, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Neon signs, gold shops and incense-filled temples crowd the streets of Bangkok's Chinatown. After dark, Yaowarat Road becomes one of the city's great street-food destinations, with stalls selling noodles, seafood and desserts.
- 6
The Golden Mount
Photo: Vyacheslav Argenberg, CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
A golden chedi on top of an artificial hill at the temple of Wat Saket, reached by a spiral staircase of around three hundred steps past bells, small shrines and trees. From the top there's a sweeping view over the old town's rooftops and temples.
- 7
Chatuchak Weekend Market
Photo: Ian Gratton from Sutton-n-Craven, North Yorkshire, England, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
One of the largest markets in the world, with thousands of stalls selling clothes, crafts, homewares, plants, antiques and food, spread across a vast site in the north of the city. It is open at weekends, with a smaller plant market on some weekdays.
TipArrive early, before it gets hot, and take the MRT or BTS to the market rather than a taxi.
- 8
The Jim Thompson House
Photo: Deror_avi, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
An American businessman who revived the Thai silk industry built this home from several traditional teak houses, set in a lush garden beside a canal. He disappeared mysteriously in Malaysia in 1967, and the house, filled with his collection of Asian art, is now a museum.
- 9
Lumphini Park
Photo: Diego Delso, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
A green oasis in the middle of the business district, with lakes, joggers, outdoor exercise classes and large monitor lizards basking on the banks. It's at its liveliest early in the morning and around sunset.
- 10
Ayutthaya
Photo: No(0)GoodNamesLeft, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The capital of the kingdom of Siam for four centuries until its destruction in 1767, now a World Heritage Site of ruined temples, prangs and Buddha statues, about an hour and a half north of Bangkok. Its most famous image is a Buddha head entwined in the roots of a fig tree at Wat Mahathat.
TipTake a train from Bangkok and rent a bicycle or hire a tuk-tuk for the day to get around the ruins; start early to avoid the midday heat.
When to go
The cool season, from November to February, brings the most comfortable weather, with lower humidity and little rain; it is also the busiest time. March to May is the hot season, with temperatures often above 35 °C. The rainy season, from June to October, brings heavy afternoon downpours, but also fewer visitors and lush greenery. Songkran, the Thai New Year in mid-April, is celebrated with huge water fights in the streets.
Getting around
The BTS Skytrain and the MRT underground are fast, cheap and air-conditioned, and avoid the notorious traffic. Contactless bank cards are accepted on the MRT and on a growing number of other lines; otherwise buy a ticket or a rechargeable card at the station. The Chao Phraya Express boats serve the riverside sights, and canal boats run along Khlong Saen Saep. Use taxis with the meter switched on, or ride-hailing apps; tuk-tuks are fun but agree the price first.
From Suvarnabhumi Airport, the Airport Rail Link reaches the city centre in under half an hour. Don Mueang Airport, used by budget airlines, is on the SRT Red Line.
Local tips
- Check entry requirements before you travel; visitors must complete the Thailand Digital Arrival Card online before arriving.
- Show respect for the monarchy: criticising the royal family is a serious crime in Thailand.
- Take your shoes off before entering temple buildings, and never point your feet at a Buddha image.
- Be wary of friendly strangers recommending gem shops or tours: it's a long-running scam.
- Drink bottled or filtered water, and carry it with you in the heat.
- Dress modestly for temples, and carry a light scarf to cover your shoulders.
Eat and drink
Bangkok is one of the world's great food cities, and much of the best food is sold on the street. Try pad thai, green curry, som tam (green papaya salad), boat noodles, khao man gai (chicken rice) and mango with sticky rice. Food courts in shopping malls offer a cooler way to sample many dishes, and markets such as Or Tor Kor are excellent for fruit. In the evening, the city's rooftop bars offer views over the glittering skyline.