The Dead Sea (Jordan)

Spring (March to May) and autumn (October to November) are the best times, warm enough to float but not exhausting. Summer at the shore is ferociously hot, regularly above 40 °C, though this is also when the Wadi Mujib water trails are open; plan early starts and spend the middle of the day in the shade. Winter is mild and sunny by day, pleasant for sightseeing, and the water is still warm enough for a quick float, but the canyons are closed for floods. Fridays, Saturdays and Jordanian holidays are much busier, especially at the public beaches.

The resort strip is about an hour by road from Amman and roughly the same from Queen Alia International Airport. There's no convenient public bus for visitors, so most people come by taxi, hired car or organised tour, or arrange a transfer through their hotel. A car makes the region easy: the Dead Sea Highway runs the length of the shore, past the Panorama turn-off and Wadi Mujib, and roads climb steeply to Madaba, Mount Nebo and Ma'in. Fill up before driving the southern shore, where services are sparse.

Many travellers combine the Dead Sea with Petra and Wadi Rum; the Dead Sea Highway continues south towards Aqaba, and the King's Highway runs from Madaba through Karak towards Petra.

• Buy the Jordan Pass before you travel: for many nationalities it covers the tourist visa fee if you stay at least two nights, and it includes Madaba's sites, Mount Nebo and Mukawir. The Baptism Site is an add-on.
• Never put your head under or splash: the water stings fiercely in the eyes and is dangerous if swallowed. If it gets in your eyes, rinse at once with fresh water.
• Don't shave for a day or two before floating, and cover small cuts; the salt makes them burn.
• Float on your back and don't try to swim on your front, which can tip you face down.
• Limit yourself to around fifteen or twenty minutes at a time, then shower and drink water.
• Wear water shoes: the salt crystals and stones are sharp and the shore can be slippery mud.
• Leave jewellery behind; the minerals can tarnish silver.
• Dress modestly away from hotel beaches, in Madaba, at Mount Nebo and at the Baptism Site.

The resorts have restaurants and buffets at resort prices, and the Panorama's restaurant is worth it for the view. For more local and cheaper food, head up to Madaba, which has family-run restaurants serving mansaf, maqluba and grilled meats, and bakeries selling za'atar flatbreads and manaqish. Drink far more water than you think you need at the shore; the dry air and heat dehydrate you quickly.

The big resorts near Sweimeh are the most comfortable option, with private beaches and spas, and many visitors stay just one night. Ma'in has its own spa resort in the hot-springs valley. Madaba, half an hour up the hill, has guesthouses and mid-range hotels at much lower prices, cooler nights and an easy drive to the sea, as well as being close to the airport.

The Dead Sea's water is about a third salt, a mix rich in magnesium, potassium and bromine, which makes it dense enough to hold you up without effort. Walk in until the water reaches your waist, then lean back slowly and lift your feet; you'll float with your head and toes above the surface. Getting up again takes a moment: tuck your knees towards your chest and push your feet down. The sea's black mud is said to soothe the skin, and plastering yourself with it, baking dry in the sun and washing off is a ritual for many visitors. People with heart problems, high blood pressure or open wounds should check with a doctor first.

The Dead Sea is falling by around a metre a year. Most of the water of the Jordan River, its main source, is now taken upstream for farms and towns, and mineral extraction at the southern end evaporates more. The shoreline has retreated far from where it was a few decades ago; hotels have had to extend steps and walkways to reach the water, and sinkholes have opened along parts of the coast. Old beach facilities stranded high above the waterline are a visible sign of the change.

This is one of the richest landscapes for biblical history in the world. Mount Nebo, the Baptism Site and Mukawir together trace stories of Moses, Elijah, John the Baptist and Jesus, and Madaba's Byzantine mosaics show how important the region was to early Christians, with pilgrims travelling here as early as the fourth century. Many of the churches are still active places of worship, so visit respectfully, especially during services.

Water is precious in one of the most water-scarce countries in the world, so keep showers short and reuse towels at your hotel. Don't take salt crystals or stones from the shore, and stay away from fenced-off areas, which may be sinkhole zones. In Wadi Mujib, follow RSCN guidance, stay with your group, and take all your rubbish out with you. Buy mosaics and crafts in Madaba from workshops that make them locally.