Nice and the Côte d'Azur

May, June, September and early October are ideal, with warm sea and sunshine but fewer people than in July and August, when the coast is hot, busy and expensive. Winter is mild and sunny, a reminder of why the Riviera became popular in the first place, but the sea is cool and some beach restaurants close. The Carnival of Nice fills the city for two weeks or more each February, with parades of giant figures and the Battle of Flowers; the 2027 edition runs from 9 to 28 February. Cannes is fully booked during the film festival in May, and Monaco during the Grand Prix.

Regional TER trains run along the coast from Grasse and Cannes through Antibes, Nice, Villefranche, Èze-sur-Mer and Monaco to Menton and the Italian border, often several times an hour, making them the easiest way to see the Riviera. Engineering works on the line east of Nice have closed it on some late evenings in 2026, with replacement buses, so check the SNCF timetable before planning a late return.

In Nice and the surrounding metropolitan area, the Lignes d'Azur trams and buses use a single, low flat fare, and the tram links the airport with the city centre. Buses also climb to Èze village and the hilltop towns, though routes and line numbers have changed in recent years, so check the Lignes d'Azur website or app before you go. Nice airport is the region's main gateway, with direct flights from across Europe. A car is useful only for the inland villages; parking on the coast is scarce and expensive.

• Nice's beaches are made of smooth pebbles: bring water shoes and something soft to lie on, or rent a lounger at a private beach.
• Public beaches are free; private beaches with loungers, umbrellas and restaurants charge for the day.
• Validate your bus or tram ticket every time you board.
• Watch for pickpockets on crowded trains, buses and the Promenade.
• Many museums are closed one day a week, often Monday or Tuesday, so check before you go.
• Monaco doesn't allow swimwear or bare chests away from the beach, so pack a cover-up.
• A tourist tax is charged per person per night on top of the room rate, depending on the type of accommodation.
• The French Riviera Pass gives entry to many museums and sights for 24, 48 or 72 hours, and can be worth it if you plan a busy few days.
• Start early for Èze, Saint-Paul-de-Vence and the Villa Ephrussi to beat the tour coaches.

Niçois cooking is its own tradition, closer to Italy than Paris. Try socca; pissaladière, an onion tart with anchovies and olives; pan bagnat, a round sandwich of tuna, egg and vegetables; petits farcis, stuffed vegetables; and the true salade niçoise, which locals make without cooked vegetables. Ravioli, gnocchi and daube stew show the Italian influence. Nice even has its own wine, Bellet, grown on the hills behind the city. Menton has lemon tarts and liqueurs, and the markets everywhere are full of olives, fruit and flowers.

Nice has the widest choice and the best transport links, from grand seafront hotels to small guesthouses in the old town. Staying near the old town or the Promenade puts you within walking distance of the main sights, while the area around the main station is handy for trains. For a quieter stay, Villefranche, Antibes or Menton make good bases. Monaco and Cannes are expensive, especially during their big events.

From the late nineteenth century, the clear light and bright colours of the Côte d'Azur drew artists from all over Europe. Renoir spent his last years among the olive trees of Cagnes-sur-Mer, Matisse came to Nice in 1917 and stayed for most of his life, and Picasso, Chagall, Cocteau, Dufy and Léger all lived and worked along the coast. Many left behind museums, chapels and decorated buildings: the Matisse and Chagall museums in Nice, the Picasso museum in Antibes, Cocteau's chapel in Villefranche and his works in Menton, and the Fondation Maeght near Saint-Paul-de-Vence. Following their trail is one of the best ways to see the region.

Grasse began as a town of leather tanners, and when perfumed gloves became fashionable in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, its craftsmen turned to the flowers that grew so well in the surrounding hills. Over time, perfume became its main trade. The skills involved in growing perfume plants, extracting their scent and creating fragrances in the Pays de Grasse are now recognised by UNESCO as intangible cultural heritage. Jasmine is harvested in late summer and the May rose in spring, and some growers open their fields to visitors.

The Carnival of Nice is one of the oldest and largest in the world, with roots going back to the Middle Ages. Each February, giant painted figures parade through the city centre by day and night, and in the Battle of Flowers, decorated floats roll along the Promenade while performers throw blossoms to the crowd. Most parades take place in ticketed stands and standing areas around Place Masséna and the seafront, so buy tickets in advance for the best views. Menton holds its own Lemon Festival around the same time, with huge sculptures made of citrus fruit.

The Riviera is one of the most visited coastlines in Europe, so travel outside July and August if you can, and use the trains and buses instead of driving. Stay on marked paths around Cap Ferrat and Èze, where the cliffs are fragile, and take your rubbish with you from beaches and islands. Swim only in marked zones where boats are kept out. Choose Niçois restaurants and local producers, and respect residents in the old towns by keeping noise down at night.