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Must See Guide

West of Ireland

Atlantic cliffs, limestone pavements, Irish-speaking islands and lake-filled mountains, strung along the wildest stretch of Europe's western edge.

Best time to go
May, June and September for long days and fewer crowds; mid-May to September for Skellig Michael landings
Local time
–
Currency
Euro (EUR)
Reading time
16 min
Language
Irish and English

The west of Ireland is where the island runs out of land. From Galway Bay down to the long fingers of County Kerry, the coast breaks into sheer cliffs, sandy coves, fjord-like inlets and rocky islands, while just inland lie bare limestone hills, bog and mountain, and lakes ringed with oak woods. It is also where Irish is still spoken as an everyday language in pockets of Connemara, on the Aran Islands and at the tip of the Dingle Peninsula, and where traditional music is played most nights in village pubs.

This guide follows the most rewarding part of the Wild Atlantic Way, the signposted coastal route that runs the length of the west coast, from Galway city through Connemara, out to the Aran Islands, down through the Burren and the Cliffs of Moher, and on to Dingle, Killarney and the Ring of Kerry. Distances look short on the map, but the roads are narrow and twisting and the views slow you down. Allow at least a week, ideally ten days, and accept that you will not see everything. Most visitors arrive from Dublin, about two and a half hours from Galway by train or motorway.

The top 17 in West of Ireland

  1. 1

    Galway city

    Galway is the west's liveliest city, a university and festival town on the mouth of the River Corrib. The heart of it is the Latin Quarter, a knot of pedestrian streets around Shop Street, High Street and Quay Street, full of buskers, painted shopfronts, bookshops and pubs where sessions start in the late afternoon. At the bottom of Quay Street, the Spanish Arch is a surviving fragment of the 16th-century town walls, and the Galway City Museum beside it tells the story of the medieval merchant families, the "Tribes of Galway". Cross the river to the old fishing quarter of the Claddagh, birthplace of the famous ring, then walk the seafront promenade at Salthill, where locals traditionally "kick the wall" at the far end.

    TipGalway fills up for the Galway International Arts Festival in July and the Galway Races at the end of July and start of August. Book rooms well ahead if your dates overlap.

  2. 2

    Clifden and the Sky Road

    The N59 west from Galway crosses the heart of Connemara, a landscape of brown bog, glittering lakes, stone walls and the quartzite peaks of the Twelve Bens. Clifden, the region's main town, sits beneath two church spires at the head of a narrow bay and makes a good base, with traditional pubs and seafood restaurants. From the town, the Sky Road climbs along a headland in a loop of about 11 kilometres, looking down on islands scattered across the Atlantic. Nearby bog roads lead to the site where Alcock and Brown crash-landed after the first non-stop transatlantic flight in 1919.

    TipThe coast road south via Roundstone, a pretty fishing village with a fine beach at Gurteen and Dog's Bay, is a slower but lovelier alternative to the N59.

  3. 3

    Connemara National Park

    Around 2,000 hectares of mountain, bog, heath and woodland near the village of Letterfrack, the park is free to enter and has well-marked trails. The highlight is the climb up Diamond Hill, a loop that rises over boardwalks and a rocky path to a summit with views across the Twelve Bens, Kylemore Abbey and the islands off the coast. Shorter low-level trails suit families, and you may see the hardy Connemara ponies that the park helps to conserve.

    TipSince July 2026, the visitor centre has been closed on Mondays and Tuesdays (except bank holiday Mondays), though the park and trails stay open. The Diamond Hill loop takes about two and a half to three hours; bring waterproofs, as the weather changes fast.

  4. 4

    Kylemore Abbey

    Mirrored in a lake below a wooded mountainside, Kylemore is the most photographed building in Connemara. It was built in the 1860s as a castle-style mansion by Mitchell Henry, a wealthy English doctor and politician, for his wife Margaret, and has been home to a community of Benedictine nuns since the 1920s. A ticket covers the restored rooms of the house, a small neo-Gothic church built as Margaret's memorial, lakeside woodland walks and a large Victorian walled garden, reached by shuttle bus.

    TipThe view of the abbey across the lake from the roadside is free, but the walled garden is worth the entry fee in summer when the borders are in flower. Check opening times and prices on the abbey's own website before you go.

  5. 5

    Killary Harbour

    Killary is a long, narrow sea inlet carved by glaciers, often called Ireland's fjord, which marks the border between Galway and Mayo. Steep mountains, including Mweelrea, the highest peak in Connacht, drop straight to the water, and lines of mussel rafts float on its sheltered surface. The village of Leenaun sits at its head, and boat trips run along the inlet in the warmer months. Just beyond, the Aasleagh Falls tumble over rocks on the Erriff River.

    TipReturn to Galway through the Maam valley and along Lough Corrib via Cong, or continue north into Mayo for Westport and Croagh Patrick.

  6. 6

    Inis Mór and Dún Aonghasa

    Inis Mór is the largest of the three Aran Islands, which lie across the mouth of Galway Bay. It is a land of bare limestone criss-crossed by thousands of kilometres of dry-stone walls, where Irish is the community language. Ferries land at Kilronan, where you can hire a bicycle or take a minibus tour. The great sight is Dún Aonghasa, a prehistoric stone fort built in semicircular rings on the very edge of a cliff about 100 metres above the Atlantic, guarded by a band of jagged upright stones. It is reached by a walk of around a kilometre uphill over rough ground from the visitor centre. Elsewhere on the island are the ruined early churches of Na Seacht dTeampaill, the sandy beach at Kilmurvey and the Wormhole, a rectangular natural pool in the rocks.

    TipDún Aonghasa is open year round; admission was €5 for adults in 2026, and free for guests staying overnight in participating island accommodation. There are no railings at the cliff edge, so take great care, especially in wind.

  7. 7

    The Burren and Poulnabrone

    South of Galway Bay, the hills of north Clare turn into the Burren, a strange grey landscape of limestone pavement split into slabs and fissures. In late spring the cracks fill with flowers, Arctic and Alpine plants growing beside Mediterranean species, including blue spring gentians and many kinds of orchid. People have lived here for thousands of years, and the most famous relic is Poulnabrone, a portal tomb more than 5,000 years old whose thin capstone balances on two tall uprights in the middle of the pavement. The Burren National Park, in the southeast of the region, has signed walking trails, and nearby you can visit Aillwee Cave or the ruined Cistercian abbey of Corcomroe.

    TipPoulnabrone is beside the R480, with a small car park and a path to a viewing area. Stay on the path and never climb on the tomb or move stones on the pavement.

  8. 8

    Doolin

    This small, spread-out village near the coast has been a magnet for traditional music lovers for decades, and its pubs host sessions most evenings for much of the year. It is also a practical base: ferries leave from Doolin Pier for the Aran Islands, especially the smallest, Inis Oírr, and run cruises beneath the Cliffs of Moher. Doolin Cave, just outside the village, holds one of the longest free-hanging stalactites in Europe.

    TipFerries from Doolin are seasonal and depend on the weather, as the pier is exposed to Atlantic swell; outside the main season, use the year-round services from Rossaveal in Connemara.

  9. 9

    Cliffs of Moher

    Ireland's most visited natural sight is a wall of dark sandstone and shale that rises sheer from the Atlantic for around 8 kilometres, reaching more than 200 metres at its highest. Paths run along the top in both directions from the visitor centre, which is built into the hillside so it does not break the skyline. To the north stands O'Brien's Tower, a 19th-century viewing tower; to the south a viewing platform looks along the cliffs towards Hag's Head. In spring and early summer, puffins, razorbills and guillemots nest on the ledges.

    TipAdmission covers parking and the visitor centre and is noticeably cheaper booked online for off-peak slots (before 11am or after 4pm); children under 12 go free. As of August 2026, the long coastal walk from Liscannor was closed for safety reasons and the path from Doolin did not reach the visitor centre, so check the official status page before planning a hike.

  10. 10

    Dingle

    Crossing the Shannon estuary by the car ferry from Killimer to Tarbert brings you into Kerry. Dingle, or An Daingean, is the main town of its peninsula, a colourful fishing port of brightly painted pubs, craft shops and seafood restaurants. Some pubs still double as hardware shops or outfitters, and music sessions run late. The surrounding district, Corca Dhuibhne, is a Gaeltacht, so many road signs are in Irish only. The Conor Pass, one of the highest roads in Ireland, climbs north from town over the mountains to Brandon Bay.

    TipThe Conor Pass is single-track in places with sheer drops and is not suitable for large vehicles; take it in clear weather or not at all.

  11. 11

    Slea Head Drive

    A loop of about 47 kilometres from Dingle around the western end of the peninsula, the Slea Head Drive is one of the most beautiful short drives in the country. It passes Ventry beach, clusters of stone beehive huts, and the headland of Slea Head itself, with the Blasket Islands floating offshore. At Dunquin, the Blasket Centre tells the story of the islanders, who were evacuated in 1953 and left behind a remarkable literature in Irish. Returning, stop at Gallarus Oratory, a small early Christian church built of dry stone in the shape of an upturned boat, still watertight after many centuries.

    TipDrive the loop clockwise, as local signs recommend, to avoid meeting tour coaches on the narrowest bends. Cycling it in a day is popular but hilly.

  12. 12

    Gap of Dunloe

    West of Killarney, this narrow glacial pass squeezes between MacGillycuddy's Reeks, home to Carrauntoohil, Ireland's highest mountain, and the Purple Mountain range. A small road winds past a string of lakes and over old stone bridges, and the classic way to see it is under your own steam or by horse-drawn jaunting car from Kate Kearney's Cottage at the northern end. Many visitors combine it with a boat trip across the Killarney lakes from Lord Brandon's Cottage, on the far side of the pass, back to Ross Castle.

    TipCars are discouraged on the narrow road through the Gap in the main season; walk or cycle it, or book a combined jaunting car and boat tour in Killarney.

  13. 13

    Ross Castle

    A 15th-century tower house standing on the shore of Lough Leane, Ross Castle was a stronghold of the O'Donoghue chieftains and one of the last places in Munster to hold out against Cromwell's forces. Inside, the rooms are furnished with period oak furniture. Boats leave from the quay beside it for Innisfallen Island, with its ruined medieval abbey, and for trips across the lakes.

    TipThe interior can only be seen on a guided tour, first come first served, in groups of up to 15. In 2026 the castle opened from 5 March to 3 November, with adult tickets at €5; expect a wait in summer.

  14. 14

    Muckross House and Killarney National Park

    Ireland's first national park wraps around the town of Killarney, taking in mountains, lakes, ancient oak and yew woods, and the country's only native herd of red deer, present here since prehistoric times. At its heart is Muckross House, a grand Victorian mansion of 1843 where Queen Victoria stayed in 1861, with gardens running down to the lake and a set of working traditional farms nearby. Walk or cycle to the roofless 15th-century Muckross Abbey, where a great yew grows in the cloister, and to Torc Waterfall, a short stroll from the road. Further along the Kenmare road, Ladies View looks over the upper lakes and was named for Queen Victoria's ladies-in-waiting, who admired it on her visit.

    TipHire a bike in Killarney town; the flat lakeside paths to Muckross are ideal for cycling and you avoid hunting for parking at the busy sites.

  15. 15

    Ring of Kerry

    The Ring of Kerry is a loop road of about 180 kilometres around the Iveragh Peninsula, and one of the most famous drives in Ireland. From Kenmare, a handsome planned town, it runs past the village of Sneem, the circular Iron Age stone fort of Staigue and the beaches of Derrynane, where Derrynane House was the home of Daniel O'Connell, the 19th-century campaigner for Catholic rights. It continues through Waterville and Cahersiveen and along the north coast to Glenbeigh and Rossbeigh strand. Walkers can follow the Kerry Way, a long-distance trail that circles the peninsula inland.

    TipTour coaches drive the Ring anticlockwise from Killarney. Whichever way you go, start early in summer, and allow a full day rather than trying to rush it in an afternoon.

  16. 16

    Portmagee, Valentia Island and the Skellig Ring

    A detour off the main Ring, the Skellig Ring is quieter, wilder and arguably even more beautiful, with views across to the jagged Skellig islands. The little harbour of Portmagee, with its row of coloured houses, is the main departure point for Skellig boats. A bridge leads to Valentia Island, where you can see fossil footprints left by an early four-legged animal hundreds of millions of years ago, and learn about the transatlantic telegraph cables laid from here from 1858 onwards. The privately run Kerry Cliffs, just outside Portmagee, offer a dramatic clifftop view for a small fee.

    TipIf you cannot land on Skellig Michael, the Skellig Experience visitor centre on Valentia and the round-the-island cruises are good alternatives.

  17. 17

    Skellig Michael

    Some 12 kilometres off the Kerry coast, this pinnacle of rock rising from the ocean holds one of the most extraordinary sites in Europe: an early medieval monastery of stone beehive huts and tiny oratories, clinging to a ledge near the summit. Monks lived here for centuries in near-total isolation, and the island is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, more recently known as a filming location for Star Wars. Reaching the monastery involves climbing 618 steep, uneven stone steps, rising about 180 metres. Neighbouring Little Skellig is one of the largest gannet colonies in the world, and puffins nest on Skellig Michael in early summer.

    TipLandings are possible only with permitted boat operators, mainly from Portmagee, during a short season: in 2026, from 12 May to September, weather permitting. Admission to the island itself is free but boat places are very limited, so book months ahead, and expect cancellations when the sea is rough. The island is now closed until 2027.

When to go

The west coast is green for a reason: it rains often, in every month, and the weather can change several times a day. What varies through the year is the light, the temperature and the crowds. May and June bring the longest days, with light until after 10pm, flowers in the Burren and nesting seabirds on the cliffs, and are often among the driest months. July and August are the warmest and busiest, with festivals, full ferries and long queues at the Cliffs of Moher and on the Ring of Kerry; book accommodation early. September is often settled and quieter, and the sea is at its warmest.

From November to March, days are short and Atlantic storms can close ferries, boat trips and some attractions, and many guesthouses and restaurants in small villages close for the season. On the other hand, winter is the time to see the cities and pubs at their most local, with huge waves crashing on the cliffs. Skellig Michael can only be visited from mid-May to September, and many Aran and Doolin ferries, boat trips and seasonal sites run roughly from Easter to October.

Getting around

A car gives you by far the most freedom, as many of the best places are down small roads with little or no public transport. Remember that Ireland drives on the left. Roads along the coast are narrow, winding and often lined with stone walls, so allow much more time than the distance suggests, and pull in to let faster local traffic pass. Automatic rental cars are limited and expensive; book well ahead if you need one.

Without a car, the main towns are well linked. Trains from Dublin Heuston run to Galway and to Killarney (some Kerry services change at Mallow), and Ennis is linked by rail to Galway and Limerick. Bus Éireann's Expressway and private coach companies connect Galway, Ennis, Limerick and Killarney, and TFI Local Link buses serve some rural routes, though often only a few times a day. Day tours from Galway and Killarney cover the Cliffs of Moher, Connemara, Dingle and the Ring of Kerry for those who would rather not drive.

Ferries to the Aran Islands leave year-round from Rossaveal in Connemara, about 40 minutes' crossing to Inis Mór, with connecting buses from Galway city, and seasonally from Doolin. A small car ferry crosses the Shannon estuary between Killimer in Clare and Tarbert in Kerry, saving a long detour via Limerick. Shannon Airport, near Ennis, and Kerry Airport, near Killarney, have flights to Britain and, from Shannon, North America; Ireland West Airport Knock serves Mayo.

Local tips

  • Pack for rain whatever the forecast: a proper waterproof jacket and shoes that can handle wet paths matter more than anything else.
  • Book ahead for the Cliffs of Moher, Skellig boats and summer accommodation in Dingle, Doolin and Killarney.
  • In Gaeltacht areas many road signs are in Irish only. Dingle is An Daingean, Inis Mór is also called Árainn, and Kilronan is Cill Rónáin.
  • Pub music sessions are informal gatherings of local musicians, not concerts; find a seat, buy a drink and keep conversation down while a song is being sung.
  • Cliff edges at Moher, Dún Aonghasa and along the coast are unfenced in many places and can be undercut. Stay well back, especially in wind and wet weather.
  • Watch for cattle and sheep on rural roads, and for cyclists on blind bends.
  • Petrol stations and cash machines are scarce on the peninsulas; fill up and carry some cash for small cafés and boats.

The Wild Atlantic Way

The Wild Atlantic Way is a signposted touring route of around 2,500 kilometres that follows the whole west coast of Ireland, from the Inishowen Peninsula in Donegal in the north to Kinsale in County Cork in the south. Launched in 2014, it links scores of official "Discovery Points", viewpoints and lay-bys marked with a wavy blue and white logo. Nobody drives it all in one holiday; the stretch in this guide, from Galway to Kerry, takes in many of its highlights. North of here, Mayo, Sligo and Donegal are quieter and just as spectacular, and the route continues south past Kenmare to the Beara Peninsula and West Cork.

Eat and drink

Seafood is the great pleasure of the west. Galway Bay oysters are best in the colder months and celebrated at the Galway International Oyster and Seafood Festival in September. Look for chowder and brown soda bread in every pub, mussels from Killary, smoked salmon from Connemara, crab claws in Dingle and fresh fish landed in the small harbours. Connemara lamb and Kerry beef are excellent, and the Burren has its own smokehouse, cheesemakers and a busy local food trail.

Galway has the region's widest choice of restaurants, from casual fish and chips to ambitious modern Irish cooking, while Dingle has an outsized number of good places for a small town, including its own ice-cream makers and distillery. Pubs remain the centre of social life: a pint of stout by a turf fire, with music in the corner, is as much a part of a trip west as any view.

Where to stay

Galway city is the obvious base for Connemara and the Aran Islands, with a wide choice of hotels and guesthouses; Clifden and Roundstone suit those who want to stay in Connemara itself. Spend at least one night on Inis Mór, when the day-trippers have left and the island goes quiet. In Clare, Doolin, Lisdoonvarna and Ballyvaughan are well placed for the Burren and the cliffs. In Kerry, Dingle town has the most atmosphere, Killarney has the most rooms of every type, and Kenmare, Waterville or Portmagee make good bases for the Ring of Kerry and Skellig boats. Farmhouse B&Bs, many family-run for generations, are a highlight in their own right.

A short history

The west is rich in traces of the distant past: Neolithic tombs such as Poulnabrone, Bronze Age and Iron Age forts like Dún Aonghasa and Staigue, and the remote island monasteries of the early Christian centuries, when Irish monks kept learning alive and travelled across Europe. In the Middle Ages, Galway grew rich on trade with Spain and France under its merchant families, while Gaelic lords held the countryside from tower houses such as Ross Castle.

The Great Famine of the 1840s struck the west hardest. Hunger, disease and emigration emptied whole districts, and the ruins of abandoned cottages and old potato ridges are still visible on many hillsides. Emigration continued for more than a century, which is why so many families in North America, Britain and Australia trace their roots to Galway, Clare and Kerry. The same remoteness helped the Irish language and traditional music survive here, and in the 20th century the west became a symbol of Irish identity for writers and artists, from John Millington Synge on the Aran Islands to the Blasket Island authors.

Responsible travel

The most popular places see enormous numbers of visitors in a short summer season, and many of them sit in fragile landscapes. Stay on marked paths at the cliffs, in the Burren and in the national parks; erosion is a growing problem, and Burren flowers should never be picked. Do not build stone cairns or move rocks on the limestone pavement. Park only in proper spaces on narrow roads, where a badly left car can block farm vehicles and emergency services. Close gates behind you, keep dogs on leads near livestock, and respect private land, as much of the countryside is working farmland. Spreading your visit into spring and autumn, and spending money in small village businesses, helps communities that depend on tourism.