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Must See Guide

Nauru

The world's smallest island republic, ringed by a coral coast and hollowed out by a century of phosphate mining.

Best time to go
Any time of year; it is hot and humid all year, with rainfall varying unpredictably between years
Local time
–
Currency
Australian Dollar (AUD)
Reading time
4 min
Language
English and Nauruan

Nauru is a single raised coral island just south of the equator, about 21 square kilometres in area and only around 19 kilometres round, making it the smallest republic in the world. You can drive the ring road in half an hour. It is also one of the strangest landscapes in the Pacific: a narrow coastal belt of homes, palms and white beaches surrounds a central plateau, known as Topside, where a century of phosphate mining has left a lunar field of grey limestone pinnacles.

The phosphate made Nauru, briefly, one of the richest countries per head on Earth after independence in 1968; its decline left environmental damage and financial collapse. In recent decades the island has also been known for hosting Australia's offshore processing centre for asylum seekers. Tourism is minimal, and the handful of visitors who come are mostly country-collectors, divers, anglers or people visiting on business.

Few people arrive by chance, because visas require planning ahead (see below). For those who do, Nauru offers a fascinating, sobering and genuinely unusual few days. Most itineraries connect through Brisbane, or through Fiji and Kiribati on Nauru Airlines' island-hopping routes.

The top 6 in Nauru

  1. 1

    Anibare Bay

    Nauru's most beautiful stretch of coast is this broad, curving bay on the east side, backed by palms and limestone pinnacles. It is the best spot on the island for sunbathing and photographs, and the small boat harbour at the bay's southern end gives the calmest water for a dip. Elsewhere, strong currents and the sharp reef make ocean swimming risky.

    TipSwim only at high tide inside the harbour or where locals do, and never alone; currents over the reef edge can be dangerous.

  2. 2

    Buada Lagoon

    In a hollow in the south-west of the plateau, this quiet, slightly brackish lagoon is surrounded by palms, gardens and houses, and is one of the greenest corners of the island. It is the only inland district not on the coast, and a pleasant place for a walk or a picnic in the shade.

  3. 3

    Command Ridge

    Nauru's highest point, at about 65 metres, was a Japanese command post during the wartime occupation from 1942 to 1945. Rusting coastal defence guns and the remains of a concrete bunker and communications post still stand among the scrub, and the summit gives views over the whole island, from the mined-out plateau to the encircling ocean.

    TipThe track can be overgrown; wear sturdy shoes and go early, before the heat builds.

  4. 4

    Topside phosphate landscape

    Much of central Nauru has been strip-mined for phosphate since the early twentieth century, leaving fields of jagged coral-limestone pinnacles several metres high, separated by pits where the phosphate was dug out. The scene is surreal and haunting, and a powerful lesson in how resource extraction can transform a place. Some areas are still worked and rehabilitation projects are under way; the old cantilever loading structures on the west coast tell the export side of the story.

    TipVisit with a local guide or driver; active mining areas are off limits, and the pits and pinnacles are unstable.

  5. 5

    Moqua Well and Moqua Caves

    In the Yaren district, near the airport, Moqua Well is an underground freshwater lake in a limestone cave, historically an important water source for islanders. Nearby, the Moqua Caves extend into the coral rock, with chambers and pools. Access has sometimes been restricted for safety, so ask locally before heading in.

    TipBring a torch and do not swim in the cave pools unless locals confirm it is safe.

  6. 6

    Parliament House and Nauru Museum, Yaren

    Yaren district, by the airport, is the seat of government, with the Parliament House and government offices facing the runway. The nearby Nauru Museum gives an introduction to the island's culture and its phosphate and wartime history. Nauru has no official capital, so Yaren functions as one.

    TipOpening hours for the museum vary; check locally on arrival.

Visas and sponsorship

Almost all visitors need a visa arranged in advance, and Nauru's rules require more planning than most countries. Tourist visa applications generally need a confirmed hotel booking, a return or onward ticket and, in many cases, a sponsor letter from a local organisation or the hotel itself, which usually handles the paperwork for guests. Processing can take weeks, and journalists and others may face extra requirements. Rules change; check with the government of Nauru or the nearest Nauru diplomatic mission before booking flights.

When to go

Nauru is hot all year, around 26 to 33 degrees, with high humidity. Rain is irregular and long droughts are common, influenced by El Niño cycles. Cyclones are very rare this close to the equator. Constitution Day on 17 May and Independence Day on 31 January are the biggest celebrations, and Angam Day on 26 October commemorates the recovery of the population after it fell to dangerously low numbers in the past.

Getting around

Nauru Airlines, the national carrier, flies from Brisbane, and on routes linking Nauru with Tarawa in Kiribati, Nadi in Fiji, the Marshall Islands and other Pacific islands; schedules are limited, so plan around them. The island has no public transport to speak of; hire a car from your hotel or local agencies, or rent a bicycle. The ring road is about 19 kilometres long and easy to circle in an afternoon. There are two hotels, the Menen and the Od-N-Aiwo, and a small number of guesthouses; book ahead.

Local tips

  • The Australian dollar is the currency. Cash is essential; card acceptance is patchy.
  • Dress modestly away from the beach.
  • Avoid photographing the offshore processing facilities or officials, which can attract unwanted attention.
  • Drink bottled or desalinated water.
  • Mobile and internet services are limited and can be costly.

A short history

Nauru was settled by Micronesian and Polynesian voyagers some three thousand years ago, and its twelve clans are still represented in the national flag's twelve-pointed star. Germany annexed the island in 1888, and phosphate mining began in 1906. After the First World War it passed to a mandate administered by Australia, Britain and New Zealand. Japan occupied Nauru from 1942 to 1945 and deported many islanders to Chuuk, where many died. Independence came in 1968, and the Nauru Phosphate Corporation took over the mines. Today the island is rebuilding its economy, with income from fishing licences and Australian partnership arrangements.