Grenada

A sweep of fine white sand about three kilometres long, Grand Anse faces west across a calm bay towards the hills of St George's. The water is usually gentle and clear, ideal for swimming, and the beach has a relaxed mix of hotels, beach bars, craft stalls and local families, especially at weekends. Vendors sell spices, coconut water and fresh fruit, and water taxis run across the bay to the Carenage. The beach is public along its whole length, even in front of the resorts.

TipThe government-run craft and spice market at the northern end is the place to buy nutmeg, cocoa balls and local jams without the pressure of beach vendors.

The capital spills down steep hillsides around the Carenage, a horseshoe-shaped inner harbour lined with old brick and stone warehouses, red fish-scale roofs and fishing boats. Walk the waterfront, then climb to the Anglican and Roman Catholic churches on the ridge, both rebuilt after Hurricane Ivan, for views over the rooftops. A short road tunnel, the Sendall Tunnel of 1895, links the Carenage to the busier side of town facing the cruise terminal. On the far side, Market Square is the commercial heart, with stalls of spices, fruit and vegetables, and Saturday is its busiest and best day.

TipWhen several cruise ships are in, the centre gets crowded by mid-morning; arrive early or come in the late afternoon, when the light on the harbour is at its best.

Built by the French in the early eighteenth century on the headland guarding the harbour entrance, Fort George is the oldest of the forts above St George's. The thick walls and cannon emplacements give sweeping views over the Carenage, the town and the coast towards Grand Anse. The fort has a sombre recent history too: in October 1983 the revolutionary prime minister Maurice Bishop and several of his colleagues were executed in its courtyard, the event that triggered the invasion days later. Part of the site is still used by the police.

TipOpening hours and access can vary; ask locally, and combine it with a walk round the Carenage below.

In a sheltered bay a few kilometres north of St George's, the Grenada Underwater Sculpture Park was created from 2006, when the British artist Jason deCaires Taylor began placing life-size concrete figures on the seabed. The best known, Vicissitudes, is a ring of children holding hands, cast from local young people; others include a man at his desk and a cyclist, later joined by works by Grenadian artists. The sculptures were designed to become artificial reefs and are now covered in corals and sponges and patrolled by fish. Several lie in shallow water that snorkellers can see from the surface; the rest are best viewed by divers. The site sits within the Molinere-Beauséjour Marine Protected Area.

TipVisit with a local dive shop or boat operator, who will collect the marine park fee. Do not touch the sculptures or stand on them.

In the hills just inland from St George's, a stream drops about ten metres into a pool surrounded by tropical plants, ginger lilies and spice trees. A short paved path from the car park makes it the most accessible waterfall on the island, and local divers leap from the rocks above for tips. The surrounding gardens are a good place to see nutmeg, cocoa and cinnamon growing.

TipIt is a common stop on cruise tours, so go early or late. Swimming in the pool is allowed; a small entrance fee is charged.

High on the mountain spine of the island, the road from St George's to Grenville climbs through rainforest to Grand Etang, a crater lake of an extinct volcano at around 530 metres above sea level, often wrapped in mist. The forest reserve around it has trails of every length, from a short lakeshore loop to longer hikes to Mount Qua Qua, among tree ferns, mahogany and wild orchids. Mona monkeys, brought from West Africa centuries ago, often gather near the visitor centre, and the forest is home to many birds, including hummingbirds.

TipIt is noticeably cooler and wetter up here; bring a light rain jacket. A small fee is charged at the visitor centre, which has trail information.

East of Grand Etang, a muddy trail drops through a spice plantation and rainforest to a series of cascades and pools, the Seven Sisters, though only the lower falls are reached by most walkers. The hike takes around an hour each way and involves some steep, slippery sections, but the reward is a refreshing swim in a jungle pool. Adventurous groups go further, scrambling up or jumping down the higher falls with experienced guides.

TipThe trail crosses private land and a small fee is collected at the start; a guide is recommended. Wear shoes with grip and avoid it after heavy rain.

In the parish of St Patrick, in the island's north, Belmont Estate is a working plantation dating back to the late seventeenth century, now run as a heritage attraction. Tours follow cocoa from pod to bar: fermenting boxes, sliding drying trays where workers walk the beans to turn them, and the chocolate made on site. There is also a small museum on Grenada's plantation history, a farm, a craft shop and a restaurant serving Grenadian lunches with a view of the hills.

TipBook the chocolate tour ahead in busy periods and arrive hungry; the lunch buffet is one of the best ways to try local dishes.

Near the north-east coast, River Antoine has been making rum since the 1780s and is said to be the oldest functioning water-powered distillery in the Caribbean. A great iron water wheel still crushes the sugar cane, the juice is boiled down in open copper pans over fires fed with the crushed stalks, and the fermented wash is distilled in an old pot still. The result, Rivers Rum, is strong enough that the high-proof version cannot be carried on aircraft, so most of it is drunk on the island. Tours are short and end with a tasting.

TipProduction is seasonal and depends on the cane harvest, so the machinery is not always running; the tasting is potent, so make sure someone else is driving.

At Grenada's wild north-eastern tip, Levera combines a long, golden beach, a mangrove lagoon and dry forest, with the islet of Sugar Loaf just offshore and the Grenadines lined up on the horizon. The beach is the island's most important nesting ground for leatherback turtles, the largest of all sea turtles, which haul themselves ashore at night from around April to July; hawksbills nest too. The sea here faces the Atlantic and currents can be strong, so swimming is not advised.

TipWatch nesting turtles only on a guided night tour with a local conservation group; never use white lights or flash, and stay well back while the turtles are laying.

Carriacou, the largest of Grenada's outer islands, is a quieter world of dry hills, small villages and turquoise bays, with a strong boat-building tradition and the Big Drum dance, which keeps alive rhythms brought from West Africa. Hurricane Beryl struck it directly in July 2024, destroying or damaging most homes and much of the island's tree cover, and rebuilding has been the priority since. Visitors returning to the island find a community working hard to recover; the beaches, including Paradise Beach and the tiny islet of Sandy Island off Hillsborough, remain beautiful, and the reefs around offer some of Grenada's best diving.

TipCheck what guesthouses, restaurants and tours are open before you travel, and spend your money locally: tourism income is a major part of the recovery.

A small volcanic cone just east of Carriacou, Petite Martinique is home to under a thousand people and is known for its seafaring families, boat builders and a relaxed pace of life. It too was badly hit by Hurricane Beryl. A short walk climbs the central hill for views across to Petit St Vincent and the Grenadines; otherwise the attractions are simple ones: a swim, a fish lunch and a chat on the jetty.

TipWater taxis and the regular ferry from Carriacou make it an easy day trip; carry cash, as card payment is limited.